Currently we use an adapter for these batteries.
Note again, a higher voltage version might be preferrable,
Allign the PC/104 power connector as shown below. Note that the connector is "keyed" (i.e. one pin hole is blocked so that it can be attached only one way).
Remove all the leads except for the two leftmost (red and black: positive and negative). The leads can be removed from the small connector by simply pressing on the indicated spot and pulling.
Cut off the large connector, and strip the extraneous wires so that it looks like this:
They are, from left to right, the VGA board, private eye driver, and CPU (core module). For convenience, we will define the front of the boards as the edge lowest in the image (with the 64 and 40 pin connectors). The bottom of the boards is the side with the pins from these connectors.
Plug the VGA monitor into the VGA board.
into the CPU board (protrusion up) and a keyboard into the utility connector.
The BIOS can be set by using the CPU core module's first serial port. Thus, you need only a terminal (or another computer using a terminal program) to perform the settings. See the CPU core module manual for more information.
Install the hard disk using the small IDE cable provided in the kit. One end of the cable
goes to the CPU board, the other to the hard drive. The cable is keyed, and the position of the connector on the cable does not matter. Power to the drive is provided through the cable.
The next step really depends on what you want to do, which OS you intend to run, and what you have available. I suggest starting the case instructions while waiting for software to install.
For most folks, attaching hard and floppy drives as in
and going through a floppy install of the OS is the easiest way to install software. Note that the hard drive installs on the back of the CPU board and the floppy on the left side (where the screwdriver points). Other methods include buying a IDE CD-ROM and installing it on the second connection on the IDE cable. To do this, a small to big IDE cable adapter kit is necessary. Toshiba makes something called the HD002KU2.5 - Install kit for 2.5" HDD which should do the trick, and a standard PC power supply is needed to provide external power to the CD-ROM (can be picked up at any computer store). Yet another option is to plug the wearable into the net with a Dlink, boot Linux from a floppy, and download the OS from the net. Other options include downloading the OS over a serial port, hooking up the 2.5 inch drive into another machine, or programming the OS into flash (optional on the Ampro boards).
At the lab we use (and highly recommend) Linux (we are currently
using the 2.0.21 kernal). A good beginning book on the subject is
We provide drivers for X for the Private Eye, Twiddler keyboard, and Sierra Wireless modems on the main pages. Most everything else is probably already written with source provided on web sites or in standard Linux distributions (Slackware, Red Hat, Debian, etc.). In my personal experience, Linux, even though public domain, tends to provide better supported than what Microsoft can provide - its just a matter of knowing where to look. In the worst case, it's usually easy to write new device drivers in Linux.
For those who insist on Microsoft Windows, I believe drivers exist for most of the equipment we use. However, they tend to be less flexible and robust. If using DOS, be aware that battery life may be halved compared to Linux. This rather fantastic result is supported by precise testing. The current theory is that the powersaving 486/586's used in the CPU boards execute low-power "hlt" instructions in Linux's idle loop while DOS is doing something else. Have not compared to Windows.
And folks who have a friend with a disk with software already installed (assumes linux and that the same model hard disks are being used), the following procedure will make a copy of the disk.
Hook up the other end to the hard drive, and wrap the cable around the hard drive so that it will fit under the CPU board.
(Note that in this image the Private Eye driver board 8 pin connector has already been replaced)
There are several ways to handle this
A soldering iron and a pair of needle nose pliers can be used to push and pull the soldered tabs out (there are no connections to worried about). Once the hood is off
the DIN-8 pins can be desoldered. The easiest (and pretty ruthless) way is to cut slowly through the plastic of the connector, cut one of the pins, grab it with needlenose pliers, and heat up the solder joint until it comes out.
While this helps ease the next steps, it is not necessary.
---------+ 1234 | 5678 | |
These tables are for our convenience; any one to one mapping will work. The mappings are for backwards compatibility with previous iterations of the driver board.
Private Eye driver board DB9 cable ----------------------------------------- 1 5 2 2 3 1 4 3 5 8 6 7 7 6 8 4The result should look like (from the bottom of the Private Eye driver board):
Private Eye connector female DB9 (as labeled on the connector itself) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- yellow(1) 1 blue (2) 6 green (3) 2 white (4) 7 brown (5) 3 red (6) 8 black (7) 4 orange(8) 9
Altogether, you should have something like
and place it on the cable. Determine where it should be placed such that strain will be put on it and not on the DB9 solder joints.
Finish assembling the strain guard and tighten in place. Note that for the thickness of the Private Eye cord, the plates of the guard have to be nested together like spoons in order to get a tight fit. The result should be tight enough that it should be almost impossible to slide the strain guard along the cord.
Place the assembly into the DB9 case, slide the 2 fastening screws into place, and put the 2 RS232 captive screws in their positions
Close the DB9 case.
The captive screws enable fastening the Private Eye connector to the case.
Copyright 1997, Thad Starner and MIT
Warrantee (or lack thereof)
Last modified: Sun Mar 16 21:17:47 EST 1997